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Letter of the Month
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Dear MBT:
Exactly what’s the difference between freewheel and cassette when talking about the cogs on a mountain bike?
Dennis Sevrenson
Dennis:
Great question! And while the answer may tend to get a bit technical, we’ll try and break down as best we can in normal English. Either system refers to the method in which the sprockets (cogs) connect to the hub of the rear wheel. The freewheel mounting method is one in which a large thread is machined right into the hub itself. The cogs are then affixed to the freewheel (a small ratcheting clutch) that is then screwed directly into the threads on the hub. The freewheel is what spins freely when you’re coasting then locks up the moment you apply pressure to the pedals.
Now the cassette mounting system is a bit different but acts on the same basic principles. Rather than an insert that threads into the hub, the cassette uses a hub that ratchets by itself (called a freehub). This freehub rolls when coasting but engages due to pedal pressure and offers up splines on its outer shell that hold the sprockets into place. Add a lock ring to the outside to prevent the cogs from sliding off the freehub body and you’re good to go.
Both systems are still in use today with the cassette method typically found on mid and higher-tier entries and the freewheel coming standard on everything else.
For making us think, we’re going to send you a $20 gift certificate to spend at Evomo. Go get yourself a kick ass shirt, and send us a snapshot of you rocking it out: www.evomo.com/
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Welcome to but another edition of ASK MBT where our editors tackle your pressing questions in effort to earn their keep. For whatever reason, our inbox has been filled with nearly as many comments as questions so we’ve decided to sprinkle these in with the usual Q&A (because, after all, Tell MBT isn’t nearly as catchy a column name).
Without further ado:
Dear MBT:
I was wondering if you could do a full review of the Diamondback Mission 2. It’s a bike I’m really considering but its $2500 price tag puts it in a pretty competitive group of options at my local shop. I love the unique look of the “Knuckle Box” linkage and that probably has a lot to do with my attraction to the bike. Any thoughts?
Kent Bonelli
Kent,
While the powers that be in the mountain bike industry are slowly recovering from the recent recession, it’s been a little tougher than usual to secure the whole gambit of test bikes for review. As such we haven’t had anything trickle down the old pipeline from Diamondback but can speak from personal experience when we say that the Mission 2 is a definite contender in the $2500 all mountain range.
Considering that the bike comes spec’ed with one of our favorite Fox suspension combinations (32 Float R, 15QR Fork & Float PR 2 shock), its nearly a given that the chassis will be given freedom to shine on even the roughest trails. The Knuckle Box configuration does more than simply look good as well as its fairly stubby triangulation allows for lower leverage rates being placed upon the shock. What this means in the real world is near infinitesimal tuning increments.
Weighing in at low 30 pounds range complete, the Mission wouldn’t be your best bet for epics/ XC race use but it would make a great choice for technical trails, rough and choppy terrain, and anything else you might consider “all mountain”.
Dear MBT:
In a recent refresh of a recently inherited old Tomac, I foolishly replaced its trusty wide flat bar (with bar ends) with a modern riser. The decision had more to do with style than anything else. Anyway, seems like the new bar messed up the bike’s best handling traits. Is my mind playing tricks on me or could the bar really have made that much of a difference?
Steve Layton
Steve,
What your suggesting is definitely possible. Keep in mind that the handlebar is one of only three places where your body makes contact with the bike. That said, we suspect the handling woes have more to do with the bar’s length than they do the change in rise. A wider handlebar equals more leverage. This leverage plays an important role in a rider’s ability to “muscle” the bike around corners, climb, and can even affect the ability to pedal in even rhythm. Your best bet would be to choose a bar that is the same width as the one you took off then to fine-tune the amount of rise that’s comfortable to you through stem selection (remember you can always flip the stem for negative rise as well). The simplest path, however, would be to forget what the magazines would have you believe and to simply return to the flat bar you removed in the first place. Style can be a legitimate concern, but running what works best for you should always take precedent.
Dear MBT:
Do you know of any good under-helmet gear to control sweat? I hate wearing a do-rag beneath my lid because it bunches up and makes the helmet not fit right. Thanks in advance.
MtBiker151
MtBiker151,
Not only is wearing a bandana as you described uncomfortable, but the tie-knot in the back can prevent your helmet from functioning properly in a crash. A helmet absorbs impact by distributing the shock across the outer shell (while the Styrofoam within compresses to give the skull a place to go). An obstruction that doesn’t allow the helmet equal positioning on your head will actually act as a pivot in a crash, driving the helmet unevenly during impact.
That said, check into a company called Halo. They produce a pretty effective skullcap for around $20 that should serve your purpose well. Just keep in mind that wearing it increases the diameter of your melon about one helmet size. They also make headbands that do well to absorb sweat without so much impact on sizing. Halo can be reached at 1-800-508-4256.
Dear MBT:
I don't know if you can help me get a donated mountain bike but I thought it couldn't hurt to give it a shot. I was injured with chemicals [Trichloroethylene and Methylene chloride]. I can't ride in the streets but would like to give the mountains a shot. Because of being disabled and on a fixed income I have to resort to begging. Maybe you have something with a blemish or something just not quite right. I would ride the trails and old abandoned railroad beds of Pa. Mount Gretna, which are about seven miles north of me. I would start out there and infiltrate into Lebanon county and the Blue Mountains. My doctor thinks it would be a good idea to get exercise and maybe lower my cholesterol in the process.
Regards,
James L. Peiffer
James,
We’re sorry to hear about your injury. As we're a digital magazine and hence don't have access to bikes per say to donate (test bikes aren’t actually ours), we can state with certainty that there are programs out there for individuals in your situation. In our experience the mountain bike industry is made up of some of the most generous, caring, and thoughtful individuals anywhere.
Hopefully someone out there reading this plea can either help or hook James up with someone who can and while they say that helping someone out in need is its own reward, we’ll sweeten the deal. If there is a company (or individual) out there who steps up to help, we will cover the tale in the future issue and offer a free lifetime advertising spot on our Sponsors/ Affiliates page.
Earn Money by Making Us Work
Attention ASK MBT fans: You’ve always got questions and we like to think that we have the answers but now you could earn some swag just for putting our collective melons to the test. In each issue we will choose a winning question or comment to become Letter of the Month and send its author $20 toward the Evomo online store. What are you waiting for? Get hammering on those keyboards.
Got a question? Fire it away to us and we'll do the best we can to answer it. Send your inquiries to Ask Mountain Bike Tales.
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