The
doors to India were many: continual flights and airport waits, customs lines,
and sleep deprivation. It took two
days of travel through invisible time lines to reach the smudgy netherworld of
New Delhi at 3 in the morning.
Many
people were out on the streets, like it was the most natural thing to be up and
about at that time of night. I
figured with a population of eight and a half million, Delhi was a city that
never slept.
The air
was filled with a scent of burning cow dung laced with incense. As Mark, Marco and I wheeled two big
carts of luggage and video equipment – 900 pounds of it – a cavalcade of cabbies
and street urchins who wanted to assist with our bags accosted us.
“I help
you!”
“No, I
help you!”
“No,
me!”
“Thanks
anyway,” we told them as we rolled the massive carts ourselves toward our
waiting bus.
Two
dark-eyed, dirty-faced boys began to fight each other, trying to commandeer our
carts.
“No,
thank you,” Mark said with a finality that scattered the boys, sending them back
to the airport for other potential work.
The other members of our tour group were hauled away on a bus. A second bus for the video crew and our baggage awaited us. We stowed our belongings aboard, and then climbed on. The bus belched forward. I settled back into my seat, too tired to dwell on the honor of having an entire bus to the three of us plus the driver and his assistant.
The bus
zoomed along, joining a highway with heavy traffic. Through the smeared bus
windows, we saw cyclists weaving in and out of thick traffic. The handmade
steel-framed bikes were a far cry from our neon hybrid-metal ones.
As we
slowed to a crawl, I wondered at the practicality of driving to a hotel an hour
away for two hours of sleep, after which we would turn around and then return to
the airport.
My mind
refused to adjust. I shut my eyes. I opened them when I heard Mark tell
the driver to “Stop!”
The bus
pulled to the side of a street where some sort of ceremony with lights was
taking place.
“Puja,”
said the driver, pulling open the door.
Mark and Marco grabbed the video camera and deck, and left the bus. As tired as I knew I was, I wasn’t
going to get left out of this adventure.
People
with bare feet and robed women with dots on their foreheads abound. They were kneeling, chanting and
worshipping icons decorated with strings of yellow lights, in an outside grotto. They took the video camera and
cameramen in stride, watching all three of us with curiosity, while
concentrating mainly on their ceremony.
At a
certain point, the three of us westerners found ourselves surrounded by some of
the more curious people, as well as passersby.
In the
excitement of the moment, Mark and I gave each other a kiss on the lips.
Immediately the mood turned dark, and our “admirers” closed in.
The bus
driver yanked open the door and called, “Get in!
Get in!”
Once we
were safely inside, he slammed the door, and we lurched away, leaving a crowd of
disgruntled Indians behind.
Once we
were back in the traffic flow, our driver turned to look at Mark and me. “Tabu,” he said, pointing at his
lips. A simple loving kiss had
almost started a riot.
Once the
bus pulled to a stop in front of the Kanishka Hotel, I shouldered my back pack,
which weighed in at 45 or 50 pounds, and headed for the hotel entrance.
The curb
was so slim I missed it. I stumbled
and fell on my face. My knees
cracked against the cement. Mark
came running to help me. “What
happened? Be careful, honey!”
I got up
as fast as I could and limped toward the hotel entrance.
“You go
and get checked in to the room now,” Mark said.
“Marco and I will handle the equipment.”
As I
headed inside for that precious two hours of sleep, I thought to myself, “Yes,
indeed, this most certainly is the land of instant karma!” And I promised to any resident
spirits, I would indulge in no more public kissing on the streets of New Delhi.
Tea Time
(Autumn 1993)
At 8 am,
we boarded a plane to Bagdogra, gateway to northern India. From Bagdogra, where military jets
scream in and out every ten minutes and your camera will be confiscated if you
try to take photographs, Mark, Marco and I piled ourselves and our equipment
into a jeep bound for Darjeeling, “Queen of the Hills.” At a rate of 30 mph, the top speed of
these handmade jeeps, it took us three hours to reach Darjeeling.
The town
sat on the crown of a mountain surrounded by tea plantations. India produces over a quarter of the
world’s tea, and Darjeeling provides a quarter of the nation’s output.
How the
Indians loved their tea with cream and sugar, and how that sweet habit would
grow on me. I would become addicted
to the moment when a server would set that delicate bone china cup and saucer
down before me, and my tongue would salivate for that first draught.
Perhaps
it was the strange marriage of the English and the Indian, west and east, back
when the English, our former foes, too, had infiltrated this country and taught
the natives some manners, including tea time and the cream-and-sugar-in-the-tea
thing. Darjeeling tea was known as
the “champagne of the East.”
We
arrived at the Chancellor Hotel in time for dinner. We had as much curry, rice
and dahl (lentil soup) as we could eat, down in the hotel dining room. The place was owned by a boisterous
German man who provided hearty loaves of bread with real butter, and beers to go
with the meal.
Mark,
Marco and I were here to document the Fourth annual Mt. Everest 100-Mile Run
and first-ever Mountain Bike Rally.
There were more runners than mountain bikers, probably 50 to 7.
“Did you
see the banner slung across the road as we drove up?” Mark chuckled. “Welcome American TV Crew. I think that was meant for us.”
“That’s
pretty wild,” Marco said, helping himself to more bread and meat. Marco was an ace cameraman who had
been around the world shooting for National Geographic, ESPN, ABC and the
credits go on. He came by it
naturally, as his dad was Director of Photography on American Graffiti and other
large projects.
Mark’s
and Marco’s fathers had been friends since they were kids, so Mark and Marco
were like cousins. Even though he
was a high-ticket cameraman, Marco decided to join us on our “World Odyssey” for
what we could afford to pay him, which was not much.
Marco is
a man who flies enough to request the aisle seat at the Emergency exit for his
long legs. He’s tall. Here in India, Marco emphasized the
Disneyland “Small, Small World” qualities of India. He had to bend to pass through many
of the doorways, and tonight would mark the beginning of a series of beds too
short for all of him.
“Hey,
I’m gonna get a shower,” Marco announced, shoving his plate away, then standing
up.
“Come by
our room later,” Mark said, “So we can charge up the batteries.”
Electricity in India is not the given it is in the United States. The shower idea was ill-fated since
we rudely discovered that the water heater was on only in the early mornings. Rather than bathe under a flow of
ice, we all decided to go to bed covered in road dust.
Mark
rose a few times during the night checking on his batteries. The electricity seemed slow and
sputtery, the charging process eked on.
It sure wasn’t Kansas or any other place on Earth I had ever been.
The next
day, we learned that just because the water heater allegedly comes on in the
morning, that didn’t mean it would stay on.
Mark showered first, luxuriating under a thin stream of tepid water.
“Uh oh,”
he said.
“What?”
“Water’s
already getting cold.”
“Uh oh.” Cold showers are best in places like
Tahiti or the Bahamas, not in the shadow of the Himalayas in October.
“I’ll
save you some hot water in this bucket,” Mark said.
I had
wondered what the bucket was for as I’d stubbed my toe on it during a night
foray to the toilet. It was all
making sense now.
The
dribble of water turned cold fast so I washed my hair in the bucket with my lips
held tight against the entry of even one drop of water which could end up
killing me. Many people had warned
us about drinking the water in India.
“We’ll
let the batteries charge up today,” Mark announced, “and use this as a location
scout/sightseeing day. We’ll take
the bikes.”
“Sounds
good to me.” I wasn’t ready to get
to work yet. I’d just been sitting
on various forms of transportation for the last two days. It would be nice to get a little
exercise.
After a
breakfast of runny oatmeal, jam, toast and tea, we three wheeled our bikes out
into the narrow cobblestone streets, and began riding down towards the city
center.
Darjeeling with its crisp mountain air and winding roads, was a perfect
mountain-biking location. We did not
see the number of bicycles we had seen on the flatter grounds of Delhi. Perhaps the Indians thought bikes
were not meant for the hills!
Soon we
came upon a market, with stalls from which people sold their wares: clothing,
textiles, jewelry, brass, art, Chicklets, anything, everything. This aisle of stalls led to a town
square where people began to gather and surround us as we rested on our bikes.
Two of
the bikes were painted gold. I think
the Indians thought they really were made of gold. The crowd drew close, to touch the
bikes. Kids with snot ballooning out
of their nostrils kept touching my bell, to make it ring. Some people touched us, too, maybe
because they had never seen white people before… Or maybe because we looked like
aliens in our bike Lycra.
Mark
jumped on his bike and began hopping it, a la Ot Pi, at the time, the world’s
best bicycle Trials athlete. The
crowd opened a circle of room for Mark to perform his stunts, which, crude by
performance standards, were wowing the Indians.
Some
people threw rupees in appreciation.
When Mark had sufficiently impressed the crowd, and exhausted his bag of tricks,
Marco and I got on our bikes, and the three of us rode away, leaving an audience
as mesmerized as if they had been snake-charmed.
When we
returned to the hotel for lunch, the batteries were finally charged. We decided to go out with the
equipment that afternoon to the local monastery.
As the
Great American Video Crew with support from the Indian government for our “World
Odyssey” project, we had a jeep with driver at our disposal.
The
Buddhist monks did not seem surprised to see us.
Their monastery was set like a jewel in a mountain south of Darjeeling
and was probably included in the itinerary of every visitor to these parts.
We took
our shoes off before treading inside the main temple. Huge statues of Vishnu and Krishna
stood in the altar area. The place
was a riot of bright colors, a color photographer’s dream. One of the monks took us on a guided
tour showing us a giant prayer wheel, and more icons.
He took
Mark and Marco, with the camera equipment, into a room where I was not allowed
to go, since I was a woman. I
chuckled to myself thinking I would be seeing the video footage of the room soon
enough. The monk obviously did not
have a clue about the capabilities of video.
What
would later be revealed to my womanly eyes was an old monk painting erotic art
on the walls of that off-limits room.
As gorgeous as it was, in deference to the monks, we never used any of
that footage in the “World Odyssey” video.
It takes
a few days to get from here to there to here.
It took a little while to realize we really were in India, where
electricity, hot water and mountain bikes were miracles. Where health was a
commodity to be strictly protected.
Where people with nothing could be happy.
To Be Continued…
Patty’s
chronicle comes from the creation of the “World Odyssey” DVD available here:
http://newuniquevideos.com/DISTRIBUTION/mountain_bike_travel_video.html





On the Pedals
The Daily Grind
Over The Bars